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Discover Vietnam’s war-torn past in its culturally rich capital

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It is 5.20am on a Sunday and Hoan Kiem Lake, a major landmark in Vietnam’s capital Hanoi, is brimming with life and activity.

The concierge at my hotel reassured me the night before that I would not be alone in my predawn run there, but nothing prepared me for such a lively scene.

A large group of mostly middle-aged men and women is already there dancing to the fast, loud thumping beat of aerobic music. Cyclists and runners of similar age are zooming around the lake at top speed.

Feeling amazed, I join the runners, tapping into the palpable energy of my surroundings and the indomitable spirit of the Vietnamese, who have fought off foreign forces for thousands of years.

People exercise at Hoan Kiem Lake, in Hanoi, Vietnam, in the early morning hours. Photo: Erika Na

People exercise at Hoan Kiem Lake, in Hanoi, Vietnam, in the early morning hours. Photo: Erika Na

The historical capital has come a long way since the days of war and destruction. It is an increasingly popular tourist destination today, playing host to 4 million international visitors in 2023, over three times more than in 2022, according to the Hanoi Department of Tourism.

Hoan Kiem Lake remains a popular destination, not only for tourists, but also locals, as it represents the country’s history of resistance and its longing for autonomy.

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