A new PC or Mac is a major purchase. Buying a high-quality device that’s built to perform well and last for years can easily cost you $1,500 or more. How much more? Well, Microsoft’s most expensive business laptop costs roughly $3,000, and a fully loaded MacBook Pro tops out at a cool $4,000.
But you don’t have to pay those sticker prices. With a little preparation and some patience, you can save up to 50% off those high price tags without sacrificing quality.
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Over the years, I’ve bought dozens of PCs and have learned a few tricks that I share in this article. I’m partial to Dell PCs and Surface devices, and I always have at least one Mac in my office, but the information here should apply to any vendor.
1. Do your homework early
If you wait until your old PC or Mac is dead or dying, your money-saving options are limited. Your selection (and price) will be whatever’s available at that time.
A better strategy? Give yourself a few months to do some research while your aging PC is still useful. That gives you time to check specs and read reviews so you can assemble a short list of devices you might want to buy as a replacement. Armed with that short list, you can then begin watching prices to see when deals appear.
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Apple rarely marks its merchandise down, but you can occasionally get a discount from a third-party seller. The AppleInsider Price Guides are a good resource for tracking those bargains.
If you’re looking for a Windows PC, on the other hand, you have a much better chance of finding discounts on all but the newest, most supply-constrained devices. Resellers, including the Microsoft Store Online, also have frequent sales. After watching prices for a month or two, you should have a good idea of what the best available discount is likely to be and can pull the trigger when you find an irresistible deal.
2. Check your credit card for discounts and rebates
These days, credit card issuers regularly offer rebates, usually in the form of statement credits or bonus points that can be redeemed for cash, airline miles, or travel. If you’re buying a Mac, using an Apple Card gets you an immediate 3% statement credit, for example.
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Earlier this year, I bought a Surface Pro from Microsoft. Using my American Express Business card qualified me for a rebate of $175 on that $1,000 purchase; that hefty discount is still available through the end of this year. If I use that card to buy products from Dell, I qualify for a 10% statement credit. Purchases directly from HP, available through various Amex products, qualify for $100 off a $1,000 purchase or $250 off if the transaction is $1,500 or more.
Chase cards offer smaller offers, although a $50 credit or 5% cash back is nothing to sneeze at.
Tracking those offers down is easy with the help of the amazing CardPointers+ mobile app and browser extension. I pay $6 a month, and it’s easily earned back 10 times that amount over the past year on all sorts of purchases.
3. Last year’s model is often this year’s best buy
Early adopters get to be the first to try out new technology, which means they pay a premium price and are also the first to run into bugs and production problems with new components.
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I recommend waiting six months to a year after a new model is introduced. That gives the hardware and OS makers an opportunity to work out driver issues, and it gives you a chance to read reviews and look for reliability issues in support forums.
And, of course, waiting typically means a price drop, especially as manufacturers and third-party sellers try to move last year’s models to make room for newer products.
4. Check the return/restocking policy
Personally, I won’t buy a product online unless the seller offers a no-questions-asked return policy.
When you buy online, you don’t have an opportunity to actually try the model you’re considering. Does the keyboard suit your preferences? Are the CPU and graphics processor sufficiently responsive? Is the particular model you received defective in any way?
If there’s something that bugs you in the first week or two, chances are you won’t get used to it later. So take advantage of return privileges. But pay attention to the restrictions!
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Apple’s return window for Macs you purchase directly from the company is 14 days, with a major exception for products purchased in the holiday season (this year, that’s November 8 through December 25); those purchases qualify for returns until January 8. Dell offers a 30-day return/refund window for new and refurbished products.
If you’re buying from a third-party seller, pay special attention to restocking fees, which can be painful if you return an item that isn’t defective. CDW, for example, charges a minimum 15 percent restocking fee for returns of “non-defective” products that you send back within their 30-day return window, and other products are completely ineligible for return.
5. Look for refurbs
Some of the very best deals in the PC marketplace are found in the refurbished section.
Refurbs are products that were returned after purchase. They’ve been cleaned up and repackaged so that they’re almost indistinguishable from new merchandise (one exception is Dell’s “scratch and dent” category, which offers even deeper discounts if you’re willing to accept minor cosmetic flaws).
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You won’t usually find just-released models in the refurb stores, but it’s easy to find last year’s model, at deep, deep discounts. Typically, refurbs have the same warranty as new merchandise and qualify for extended warranties as well.
Apple makes the refurb section difficult to find. Here’s a direct link: Apple Certified Refurbished.
Dell refurbs are available in the Dell Outlet, which has separate sections for Home and Business. Even if you’re looking for a business PC, it’s worth checking out the Home selection.
HP and Lenovo also have refurb outlets, as do some third-party sellers, including Amazon’s Woot. With third-party sellers, be sure to check the warranty and return policies carefully.
6. Consider an extended warranty, especially for laptops
Most new PCs and Macs include a basic warranty that covers defects in the first year. While that warranty is in effect, you can typically purchase an extended warranty that covers you for a second or third year. For laptops, the cost of a screen repair or a battery replacement, especially in a sealed unit, can be exorbitant, making a warranty worth considering.
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For a Mac, AppleCare covers defects but not accidental damage. PC makers typically offer a range of warranty options. For a Microsoft Surface, for example, you can get a two-year Microsoft Complete warranty that includes accidental damage coverage, even from drops and spills, for $149. Dell offers similar accidental damage coverage that covers liquid spills, drops, and falls (including a damaged or broken LCD), and any damage caused by a power surge.
The best time to buy this coverage is with the original purchase. In some cases, that’s the only time you can buy it.
7. Do your own upgrades if possible
It’s no secret that hardware makers squeeze their very highest margins out of hardware upgrades on custom configurations. If you can do the upgrade yourself, you can sometimes save hundreds of dollars, even if you have to replace the manufacturer-supplied parts.
Your best DIY upgrade opportunities are available in desktop PCs, which usually have easily accessible slots for RAM and video upgrades and drive bays and slots for adding fast storage.
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On modern laptops, expanding or replacing memory is usually impossible after the initial purchase, as those memory modules are soldered onto the motherboards.
Storage, on the other hand, can sometimes be easier to expand. Every Surface device, for example, includes an easily accessible drawer where you can replace the built-in NVMe storage at a fraction of the official upgrade cost. Dell makes you work a little harder to upgrade laptop storage, but with the right tools and a bit of patience, it’s not a difficult job, especially if you search YouTube for videos that walk you through the process. On a MacBook, however, forget about it; that SSD is soldered onto the motherboard.
One expansion option that works well on high-end hardware is to use external storage devices connected via USB-C. With a Thunderbolt or SuperSpeed+ 10 Gbps connection, the added storage is fast enough for just about any task, although it’s awkward for portable devices.